Best Destinations of 2017

As each year closes, I can’t help but feel that this one came more quickly than the last, and man- that’s certainly true of 2017. That can be discouraging though, can’t it? Every year, we set audacious goals for everything that we want to accomplish in the months ahead. But before we know it, it’s over (often far before we’ve accomplished all we set out to do). 

Last year at this time I was convinced by the end of 2017 I’d be living in London. Though I’ve put forth great effort, I’m technically no closer to that goal now than I was 365 days ago. Life is funny like that, isn’t it? If I had to guess, I’m sure you have some sort of “London” of your own. 

If you’re circumstances aren’t as different as you hoped they’d be right now, you’re not alone. And while that can drive you mad at times, this year I’ve learned that life is a lot more about enjoying the journey than simply arriving at a destination (and yes, I realize how terribly cliche that sounds… I’m rolling my eyes even as I type it). 

No, 2017 didn’t deliver me to my goal of living in London. It did however, write some incredible chapters in my story of life that I can’t imagine living without now. It took me to new corners of the world and connected me with wonderful people I already love dearly. It humbled me to do things I said I’d never do and taught me valuable lessons I’ll keep forever. It knocked me down and made me cry, but taught me the resilience to get back up. It made me realize no time is wasted if you keep your eyes open to appreciate the gifts along the way. 

This time of year, we see lots of “year in review” posts on social media. While we must remember these are highlight reels (usually only showing the good things, not the struggles), I still think it’s a beautiful way we can celebrate how far we’ve all come together. But I also think when we can share what we’ve learned with each other, it provides an opportunity for all of us to gain wisdom and insight heading into a new year. 

I visited over 12 countries and 50 cities in 2017, so trying to recap all of that would take me an entire year in itself! But since I shared some of my top trips from 2016, along with a valuable lesson I learned in each place, I thought I’d at least share my highlights again from the past year. I hope it not only inspires you to see some of these places for yourself, but that you gain encouragement from some of my greatest takeaways from the year. 

FRANCE

I couldn’t pick one single destination from my road trip through France, because each place I visited was unforgettable. For two weeks this spring, I drove all across this country with various friends. I started in Toulouse and drove to Montpellier, Saint Remy de Provence, Aix en Provence, Valensole, Gordes, Menerbes, Lyon, Dijon, Etretat, Mont Saint Michel, Loire Valley and made a few stops in Paris along the way. Between seeing the lavender fields like I’ve always dreamed of, connecting with new friends and chatting for hours into the night under the Eiffel Tower, and discovering tiny villages I didn’t even know existed, my two weeks in France were easily some of my favorite this entire year. There were nights I stayed in 5 star hotels and was treated like royalty, and also nights that I shared an Airbnb with strangers (with no AC in the heat of the summer too). There were times I was anxious and had no idea where I was sleeping the next night, but also times when I was so relaxed I’d fall asleep in sun while reading my book. I got a police escort off a pedestrian bridge. I attended a French press event where I had no clue what was going on because it was all in French. I tasted wine from (arguably) the most prestigious region in the world. I spent time with so many different people and time wandering through various bits of the country by myself. Much like life in general, France provided a variety of experiences and emotions, highs and lows, but all weaving together an incredible chapter and some of my favorite memories of the year. 

CANADA

I’m a 7 on the Enneagram (a personality test I’m fascinated by). 7’s are labeled “The Enthusiast” because well, we’re pretty excited about everything. At our best, we view the world in child-like wonder, dream up crazy big ideas and have more fun than most people are capable of having. But the pitfall of a 7 is that we can be so preoccupied by the future or “riding our next high” that we miss out on the present. 

I start with that explanation because I'm very much guilty of always romanticizing the grand adventure of Europe. Don’t get me wrong- a lot of it is for good reason. Europe easily holds the large majority of my favorite places in the world and I feel like it “fits me” in more ways than I can count. But because it’s harder to get to it can feel like a larger or “more special” experience than a domestic trip. So as a 7 who always wants more, More, MORE!!! this is very seductive. So seductive in fact, you could accidentally neglect the amazing places around you. This is exactly what I’d done with Canada- up until last month (travel guides coming next month!)

I couldn’t have been more impressed with the natural beauty I witnessed in Emerald Lake, Lake Louise, Banff and Whistler. They were the kind of place that take your breath away and leaves you simply standing in wonder, trying not to drool. It was the most I’ve ever been still while traveling. Not running around to see sights or hustling to make all the museums or stuffing my face at every restaurant possible. Instead, we spent slow cozy morning by the fire and taking in the views. Cell service was spotty, which forced us to unplug and be in the moment. It was unlike most other trips I’ve ever taken, but in a wonderful sort of way that I really needed. 

This trip reminded me that some of the most beautiful gifts in life are closer than we think. This is true both in the literal sense of neighboring destinations that aren’t oceans away, but also in a figurative sense. Slow cozy mornings or unplugging from distractions or pausing to appreciate the beauty of nature around us— these are all rich gifts we can tap into from anywhere in the world. So why don’t we more often?

PORTUGAL

I loved visiting Lisbon, Porto and Madeira, but the stories I want to share for this particular blog were from Lisbon and Madeira.

LISBON

Last August on a boat in Croatia, I met a woman named Paula, with whom I became fast friends. She was exotic and gorgeous and quintessentially Portuguese. She shared my love of travel and fascinated me with her stories from adventures around the world. At the end of the day, we exchanged emails and she told me to contact her if I ever came to Lisbon. Fast forward to this spring, and I was booking at ticket to Portugal to meet up with some friends. Naturally, I wrote Paula to see if she’d want to meet for lunch before the rest of the group got in. 

It would have been great if Paula simply said yes. I would have been keen to reconnect and possibly pick her brain for some recommendations. But instead, Paula picked me up from the airport and took me into her house for a homemade Portuguese meal on her balcony, overlooking Lisbon. We caught up on life from the last few months- she told me about her trip to Japan while I told her about my coast to coast road trip. She even wrapped up a Lisbon travel book as a gift for me and wrote out a detailed itinerary with her best recommendations for my allotted amount of time in her city. We had the loveliest afternoon and I didn’t want it to end. 

Lucky for me, she ended up joining my friend Caitlin (another fast friend I met from traveling) and I for dinner that night. She took us to a trendy, bustling restaurant full of locals that we definitely wouldn’t have found on our own. She ordered our food and drink in her native Portuguese tongue. We sat there for hours swapping travel stories, eating course after course of amazing local cuisine I felt so much gratitude well up from my bones I could have cried. Sure, I was in an incredible city I’d wanted to visit for a while. But I was there with two fascinating women whose friendship I’d acquired from getting out in the world and connecting with the people in it. And it all sparked from striking up a conversation with a stranger on a boat. 

How many amazing connections like this do we miss on a daily basis? Sure, we don’t have time to be best friends with everyone and I can certainly respect being thoughtful about who and what you give your time to. With that said, I’d also argue most of us operate day in and day out like robots- speaking only to the people we know or addressing strangers when communication is required to meet a need of ours. But this friendship I made with Paula makes me think about random passerby’s a bit differently though. What story does my Uber driver have? Or the man sitting next to me at our gate at the airport? We all come into contact with countless strangers day in and day out, and they all have a story. And if we aren’t willing to strike up friendly conversation, we’re going to miss a lot of fascinating ones. 

MADEIRA

This place was incredible simply for its beauty (read more about what to do here).

But what I loved so much about this trip was the company. I traveled here with other travel bloggers- friends I’d met from different corners of the world. Like Paula, they were the kind of friendships that happen instantaneously because you just click so well. So when I had booked my flight to London this spring, knowing I’d make it to some new places too, they were the first ones I reached out to. One of them suggested Madeira, and to be honest I had never even heard of it. That didn’t deter me of course (one of my goals every year is to go somewhere I didn’t even know existed) but it did make for a particularly memorable moment.  

We had spent the first day catching up since we lived in different cities around the world (they’re in Berlin, London and Austin). So on the second day, we decided to go explore. We had a rental car and drove up to Pico Do Arieiro, the highest point on the island. It was a pretty tumultuous drive up: lots of hairpin turns and drop off cliffs and literally required driving through the clouds to reach the summit (which meant very low visibility at times). We all pulled together to safely arrive at the top for easily one of the most impressive views we’d ever seen. 

There were so many things about that moment I would have never seen coming. I didn’t know I’d be back in Europe on another open ended trip. I didn’t know I’d make friends over here I connect with on a deeper level and love traveling with so much. I didn’t even know this entire island existed, much less this incredible outlook. At the risk of sounding cheesy, it reminded me that while some things won’t look different a year from now (and that can be frustrating) some things will lead you down a wild path of beautiful twists and turns that lead you to asking (in the best kind of sense) “How did I wind up here?"

CHICAGO

Considering I moved to Chicago in September, this destination wasn’t exactly a “trip."  Even still, this last season has been one of the top highlights of my year and I couldn’t not include it. I explained here that I decided to come to Chicago when I couldn’t get a visa to London, but I still really wanted to try out life in a new city. My hope was honestly to find something to replace the desire for London, (which seemed like an easier solution than finding a visa) but that’s not what happened. Instead, I found a new kind of appreciation for another city I also love dearly - just in a different way. And while I could rave on and on about why Chicago is so fascinating and all there is to do there, I’ll save that for my travel guides (one is here but I’m working on a 2.0 now that I’ve lived here!)

What I want to focus on about Chicago here is all that it taught me. It was here I realized even if my year may not have gone exactly as I would have planned it to, that didn’t mean it wasn’t still a great year. Chicago enriched my life in more ways than I can count. 

I was able to fall in love with another great city and get to know so many intricate details  that you just can’t appreciate as a visitor: knowing your way around, having your “regular spots”, mastering the public transit… it all feels incredibly gratifying.

I was able to go from seeing some family I love once every year or two, to living in their guest room and doing day to day life together. We shared countless meals. I got to see my little cousins at swimming or gymnastics and hear about their day at school. I got to know all of them even better and love them even more now because of it. 

I was able to experience being “the new girl”. I went to countless dinners with people I barely knew (or didn’t know at all!) and slowly, over time, got to experience how good it feels when groups of friends welcome you with open arms and include you in their plans for brunch or dinner parties or Halloween. 

And man, I was able to learn so much just from dating (I’ve never been on more dates in a condensed period of time in my entire life!) I actually stayed put in one place long enough to date the same person for a while (not just be a perpetual casual dater like I’d been the last few years). I was able to see first hand that sometimes the really hot guy you’re so excited to go out with ends up being really dull and not that interesting, while the guy who's "cute enough" at first glance actually can end up blowing you away. I learned honest feedback and communication is how we learn and grow from dating, even when ghosting seems easier (I experienced both being ghosted and being the one tempted to ghost myself). I went on a couple terrible dates that make hilarious stories now, but also some amazing ones with great guys I'll definitely keep in touch with.

Chicago let me “start from scratch” and ask myself things like “What are you looking for in a church? In a partner? In a friend group?” Because when you start over somewhere new, you get to choose the foundation for how you build on all of those things. So whether or not I build future seasons in Chicago or in London or in another corner of the world, I’m infinitely grateful for all the things Chicago has taught me about who I am and what I want out of my life that will make future seasons even sweeter. 

The thing about reflecting on the good stuff in life is that it usually leads you to remember even more good stuff. Typing all of this brings back dozens of other stories I want to tell: meet cutes about new friends in Prague, singing “Sweet Caroline” at Fenway in Boston, my entire coast to coast road trip from the spring, Jackson Hole with my best friends, Greece with another best friend… so much has happened this year! But in effort to keep this succinct (and so I can go get ready to ring in the New Year in London tonight!) I’ll simply end on this note: you may not be exactly where you want to be in life right now, and 2018 may not take you anywhere close to where you think you’re going either.  But there is so much life to be lived and stories to be told as each day goes by. So whatever happens, let's be sure to look closely at all the goodness that’s around us and enjoy the journey along the way.

Wishing you an amazing New Year's Eve tonight! I'm in London and will be sharing our celebration (several hours ahead of the US time zones!) so follow along in real time on Insta-stories. 

HAPPY NEW YEAR, FRIENDS!

xx

Whitney

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE CHAMPAGNE REGION OF FRANCE

Happy Tuesday! It's been another couple weeks of whirlwind adventures, meaning I've been a bit MIA on the blog. I've been from London to Amsterdam to Seville to Granada to Barcelona and now I'm settled in Florence for the week before my next stop. I'm so excited to recap all of my journeys above, but I still have so many to write about that came before these! So first, let's rewind a bit to August. 

On my most recent trip to Paris, my friend Brenna and I extended to visit Reims- the home of champagne. To say I love champagne is the understatement of the century, so I've always known I had to pay a visit to the source of all it's glory. I’ve tried to do this on my previous two trips but for various reasons it never seemed to work out. But finally, at long last I can now say I've sipped champagne whilst in Champagne-- and it was a wonderful experience. I also learned a lot along the way, so before plan a journey of your own, here are some things to know about the Champagne region of France. 

1. Make it a day trip.

While Reims is roughly 150 km (or ~93 miles) away from Paris, it’s only a quick 45 minute trip on a high speed train- making it an easy trip you can take if you want to get outside of the hustle and bustle of the city for a bit. For the sake of proper exploration (and the fact that I’m abroad for several months), we opted to stay for a couple of days. In all honestly, I’d only recommend you do the same if you also have ample time, because it can easily be done in a day. In general, lugging your suitcase all over Europe is a lot more complicated than you may think. I’ve previously mentioned that finding a lift can be difficult (especially if you stay somewhere besides a hotel) so you’re likely to be going up and down flights of stairs with a suitcase. So plan on taking the first train out and the last train home (I'd advise buying tickets online in advance) to maximize your champagne experience while minimizing the travel efforts. 

2. Expect cellars, not vineyards. 

After visiting Napa earlier this year, I sort of anticipated Reims would resemble the wineries I visited there: sprawling estates housing the cellars nestled on acres of lush, green fields. So you can imagine my state of surprise when I realized most of the tours you’ll take in Reims are in buildings (cellars) located in the heart of the town (sans any sort of field).

While lacking fields may take away some of the romance you picture in your mind compared to a place like Napa, it actually is extremely beneficial for the sake of your travel plans. Those acres of fields make walking impossible and hiring a driver expensive. On the contrary, you can easily walk or take a short cab from the train station to a lot of the popular champagne houses in Reims. 

With all of that said, we were still able to venture out to fields where grapes are grown, however we did so on our own and it required a bit of exploration (and not the cheapest cab I’ve ever taken). 

3. Be prepared for less English

If you have trouble with the language barrier in Paris, then you definitely need to prepare yourself for Reims. Paris hosts significantly more tourists, therefore English is more commonly spoken. And while there are still many English speaking people, don’t expect it to be as common. Every champagne house staff member I came into contact with spoke wonderful English, but I did struggle a bit when it came to transportation (cab drivers, train station employees, etc.) To avoid any unnecessary complications, do a little planning on the front end (buy train tickets in advance, have your location addresses saved in a note on your phone, etc.)

THE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES

Once you decide to go to Reims, you need to decide which houses to visit. There are countless options to choose from (remember that literally all champagne in the world comes from this small region). I'd advise selecting a couple larger, more prestigious house as well as a couple small, boutique ones. For example, we went to Taittinger and Veuve Clicquot, but then also to Jean-Claude Lépitre-- a small family winery that you won't find anywhere in the states. I loved this approach, because now anytime I drink a bottle of Taittinger or Veuve (champagnes that are everywhere around the world) I know exactly where it came from and can share the story of my experience with whomever I'm drinking it with. But at the same time, I loved having the unique experience from the boutique house and trying champagne that I would never be able to taste otherwise. It was so fun to buy a bottle (which Brenna was so kind to take home for me, since my suitcase is obviously pretty full already) that I can save for a special occasion and know that no one else can just pick it up at any ordinary wine store. 

Whatever large house you choose to visit should be one that you're excited about. While you can usually pop in for a tasting just about anywhere, if you want to do a proper tour you should call or email them in advance to secure your reservation. I had several others I also would have loved to try but for the sake of time, we prioritized the following: 

Tattinger

We had such an amazing start to our day by doing a private tour of the Tattinger cellars (complete with a private tasting in their beautiful sitting room). Jean-Pierre (our guide) taught us so much about the Tattinger family, the history of the estate and cellars, and the process of how their champagne is made. Their property is impeccable, and it was so cool to see thousands and thousands of bottles aging that could easily be one that I end up drinking someday! 

Tattinger is the largest, privately owned champagne house in the world. Their flagship wines are the Comtes de Champagne (which is comprised of 100% Chardonnay) as well as their Comtes de Champagne Rosé (70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay). Everything I've ever tried by them is fantastic. 

I'm also so glad I got to do the Tattinger experience with Brenna of all people, because it's the same champagne we popped together just a few months earlier on a jet to Charleston for her birthday! Needless to say, I think when celebrations are in order for either of us, it will remain our bubbly of choice. 

I can't recommend visiting this champagne house enough. The information you'll learn, the wines you'll taste and the beauty you'll see is all incredible. Book your own visit below. 

 

 

Veuve CliCquot

After our tour at Tattinger we went just around the corner to Veuve Clicquot for a tasting (since we were a bit pressed for time and wanted to venture out to the grape fields, we didn't do a tour). Along with their traditional champagne you've tried before, they also serve tastings of their reserve bottles (which aren't available for purchase just anywhere). We opted for that (which was delicious ) and enjoyed it outside in their beautiful courtyard- which even had a few grape vines to make you feel like you were in the field! 

JEAN-CLAUDE LÉPITRE

Our time at Jean-Claude LéPitre was hands down one of the most memorable things I've done in Europe. Our friends at Café Du Palais pointed us in this direction when we explained how badly we wanted to see picturesque fields of grapes like we imagined in our minds. A short phone call later, we were in a cab on the way to the home of a producer who makes their own champagne they exclusively serve at the restaurant. Julien, the son of Jean-Claude greeted us and took us on a tour of the family's wine cellar and let us taste their (delicious) champagnes. He even drove us up the street behind the family estate to their endless fields of grapes so we could have our vineyard experience that we dreamed of. I can't say enough nice things about how great the champagne was or how kind he was (he literally just got a last minute phone call and dropped what he was doing to show us around). They have so many grapes (more than the number of bottles they produce each year) so they actually sell some of their grapes to Veuve Clicquot (who obviously have a greater need for a larger supply). So if you go to Reims, I highly recommend looking up Jean-Claude Lépitre for a truly unforgettable experience. 

THE DINING

There won't be a ton time to eat if you fill your day with tastings, but nonetheless there are some great food experiences to try when your stomach needs to soak up all that champagne! If you're looking for the best places to eat in Reims in a day's time, I'd recommend:

Lunch at Café Du Palais

We were told by multiple people in Reims to pay a visit to Café du Palais during our stay. This quaint café serves traditional local fare (like proper Reims ham) but it's also brimming with history. Since it's start in 1930, they've been acquiring hundreds of Art Déco objects (furniture, portraits, sculptures, etc.) which are still displayed today. The staff was also extremely helpful, and was kind enough to connect us to Jean-Claude Lépitre (which was one of my favorite experiences of the trip!)

Dinner at L'Apostrophe

There are tons of restaurants to choose from in Reims, but we loved having dinner at L'Apostrophe. They boast traditional French fare (I loved their beef for my main and crème brûlée for dessert). They also have a wide variety of champagne to choose from (including all the popular houses as well as small boutique growers). Sit outside on their patio if the weather is nice and enjoy watching all the hustle and bustle go by in the streets of Reims. 

I'm so happy I can finally say I've been to Reims! It was an amazing couple of days and brought me some memories I'll always remember. I hope this helps you plan a trip of your own!

I'm signing off to walk off some of the excessive carbohydrates I've been eating here in Florence! Stay tuned for next week's recap of my adventures in Ireland, and enjoy the rest of your week!

xo, 

Whitney

Fall in love with France (and avoid looking like a tourist)

For years, I dreamed of traveling to France. What girl hasn’t? Anyone against indulging in delicious pastries or sipping wine at a cafe while marveling at stunning architecture is no friend of mine.

This year my dreams finally came true and I got the opportunity to venture to the glorious land of macaroons and champagne 3 different times.  But before my maiden voyage, I must confess I was a bit nervous. I’d heard dozens of stereotypes about the French and their great disdain for the annoying tendencies of American’s. So I did my homework, held my breath, and exhaled a great sigh of relief immediately upon arrival.

As it turns out, the French are extremely lovely people, and I have nothing but wonderful things to say about them. But I also learned that a few basic tips can go a long way to be well-mannered and gracious (fighting off one poor US stereotype at a time!)

So if you’re looking to go yourself, take these simple tips along to avoid looking like an inconsiderate tourist so you can fall completely in love with the people of France.

Parlez-vous français?

Don’t let this intimidate you, but try to learn a little French. I’m not suggesting you become fluent, for Pete’s sake. But knowing a few basic phrases will carry you far. More than likely, the locals will detect your accent and promptly switch the conversation to English (especially in major cities) But it’s always appreciated that you made the effort. And who can blame them?  If someone from Zanzibar walked up to you here in the U.S. jabbering away in Swahili, would you be able to respond? And even if you could, you’re still likely to be thrown off a little. So download a simple app like Learn French that’s chalk full of all the basics you will need (greetings, general conversation questions, directions, etc.)

Bonus Tip: If you have any dietary restrictions, learn how to explain those clearly. For example, I eat seafood but not other meat so I made sure I could say "Je ne mange pas de viande. Je mange des fruits de mer. Qu’est ce que tu recommends?"

Embrace lassiez-fare

French women embody an effortless vibe from head to toe, starting with their beautifully bare faces. Here in America, we’ve become somewhat of a “cover it up” society: concealers, foundation, powders, contouring, highlighters, blush… the list goes on. But the common routine in France? A kick butt skincare regimen (these gals don’t need to cover anything up). The more I noticed the fresh-faced women during my stay, I progressively eased up on my own makeup routine with a simple coat of mascara (and occasionally a pop red lip). No makeup not your thing? Fear not all ye lovers of Sephora, because a French woman’s laissez faire look goes far beyond a minimalist makeup routine. Women in France own that “I woke up like this” vibe with their beautifully undone hair.

For French-inspired locks, give your hair dryer and styling tools a break and instead, embrace that tousled ‘au natural’ look. If you want something that feels a little more polished, try a sleek pony for that simple yet pulled together style.

Top off your French beauty basics with an effortlessly chic wardrobe. Once again, less is more. Focus on muted colors and rich textures, staying away from over the top prints or embellishments (you can never go wrong with black on black). For outerwear, stick with a leather jacket or the classic “trench and scarf”. And for your feet? Ballet flats are both stylish and practical (making them a French woman’s bestie). Put it all together, and c’est magnifique!

Bonjour Madame!  & Merci, Au Revoir!

It’s a common courtesy to tip 18-20% while dining out in the states (which you don’t need to do in France, by the way). So imagine how annoyed a server here would be to receive a dollar or two after someone’s extravagant meal. Similar emotions could apply to not greeting your shopkeepers in France. Quite often, they’ll beat you to the punch with an enthusiastic and warm “Bonjour Madame!” but in the off chance that they don’t see you come in, make a point to respect the local culture and take the lead to say hello. And regardless of if you purchase anything or not, offer a smile and “Merci, Au Revoir!” on your way out.

La Bise

During my first trip to Paris, I met up with a friend of a friend whom I’d become acquainted with over email. Given the mutual connection and history of our conversation, I saw this person as a friend, so I went in for the hug. Awkward doesn’t even begin to encompass the mess of twisted confusion that was happening as I tried wrapping my arms around him while he attempted to kiss my cheeks, which is the appropriate greeting in France (although do your research, because how many varies depending where you are). Fortunately, he was gracious-though I still felt stupid. So in the event that you’ll be introduced to locals, skip the handshakes and hugs and go for an air kiss on each cheek instead  (no actual lip contact!) If you’re nervous, just lean in a little and they’ll more than likely take care of the rest without blinking. Once I met some other friends and got over my initial awkward hump, it became second nature- even fun!

Bonus Tip: Before going cheek to cheek, remove hats or sunglasses to eliminate any tricky obstacles!

Appreciating people for their differences and learning about a new culture is one of the most exciting parts of traveling. So even when some of those differences are evident, remember that basic decencies will always work to your advantage: control the volume of your voice, say please and thank you, smile… you know the drill. We’re all human beings at the end of the day, and kindness can move mountains.