Budapest Travel Guide

A couple months ago my friend Haley and I had the great pleasure of exploring Budapest: the Hungarian capital and arguably, the most fascinating city in eastern Europe. Divided in half by the Danube, Budapest is comprised of a hilly "Buda" district on the west side of the river and a flat "Pest" side on the east.

I'd often heard Budapest is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, and I would have to agree there are few places that compare architecturally (the city is exploding with gorgeous baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and art nouveau buildings). 

But beyond the architecture, Budapest is exploding history, culture and countless other reasons to visit. While it may sound a bit intimidating (or even uninteresting) to someone who is only familiar with the popular tourist destinations like London, Paris or Rome, I guarantee anyone will find this cosmopolitan eastern-European city to greatly exceed expectations. I actually think one could enjoy a full week in this city, but unfortunately we only had about 36 hours to squeeze in as much as we could. So regardless of how much time you can afford to spend in the Hungarian capital, here's what I learned during my time in this fascinating city: 

know before you go: 

• LANGUAGE: Hungarian, although most everyone we met spoke English. As always, I suggest learning a few basic words/phrases to respect the local culture. I believe at minimum, one should always learn how to say "thank you" in the native tongue. We were told to say "köszi" (pronounced coo-see). I later learned this was a more informal way to say thank you, so if you'd like to learn a few different translations, try watching this video.

• CURRENCY: Hungarian Forint. While most places accepted bank cards, we did withdraw some cash from an ATM at the airport once we arrived. WARNING: the conversion is a bit confusing ($1 USD equals roughly 250 HUF). We ended up taking out WAY too much money because the suggested amounts at the airport are intentionally set high in hopes that tourists will take out a lot of money and therefore, need to spend it while in Hungary. So be sure to know how much you're taking out before going through with the ATM transaction.

• GRATUITY: Tipping is not as customary as it is in the states. Plan on leaving ~30Ft to 50Ft per drink at the bar and between 10-12% while dining at restaurants.

• GETTING AROUND: Budapest is a very walkable city! That's pretty much all we did. We did take a taxi once or twice, and a funicular up to Fisherman's Bastion (more about that in a minute) but everything else we did on foot. Staying central is important if you want that benefit-- I will speak to our accommodations that offered that in a minute.

WHAT TO DO

FISHERMAN'S BASTION

If you're looking for views in Budapest, look no further than Fisherman's Bastion. Designed and built between 1895 and 1902, this neo-Gothic terrace is named after the medieval guild of fishermen who protected Budapest from invasion. It is situated on the Buda bank of the Danube, on the Castle hill, and is probably the most beautiful part of Budapest (in my opinion anyway!) Travelers around the world seems to agree that Fisherman's Bastion looks like something out of a fairytale (many have said it resembles walking around Hogwarts). 

Once you're up here, you can see gorgeous views of Buda Castle, Hungarian parliament, Matthias Church (right next door) and pretty much a sweeping panoramic view of the entire city of Budapest. We came for sunset and it was honestly the most ideal place to watch the sky turn pink and the city lights come alive. 

To get here, you can take the funicular from Chain Bridge. Ticket prices for the funicular run around 700 Hungarian forint ($2.50) for kids and 1,200 Hungarian forint ($4.25) for adults. That trip alone is a fun way to get up the steep Castle hill (although if you want to work of some of that goulash, you can always take the stairs!)

SZÉCHENYI THERMAL BATH

Locals will say that "if you poke a hole in the ground anywhere in Hungary, you'll find hot water." In fact, one of the reasons the Romans first colonized the area immediately to the west of the River Danube was to utilize the thermal springs (ruins from these baths are still visible today). Turkish baths were also built in the area between 1541–1686. These served both for bathing and medicinal purposes, and some are still in use today. 

Around the 1920s, Budapest gained its reputation as a city of spas as more continued to be built. Today, the thermal baths are actually part of their health-care system (doctors regularly prescribe treatments that include soaking in various combinations of heat and minerals).

It's safe to say that visiting one of these baths is simply a must while in Budapest. Haley and I opted to visit the most popular one: Széchenyi thermal bath. 

Built in 1913, Széchenyi thermal bath is the largest one in all of Europe. While this may be a tourist “must",  rest assured- you’ll also find locals of all shapes and sizes soaking or huddled around the chess boards.

Some things to know before visiting?:

• Given the fact that this bath house is the most popular, anticipate crowds.

• Admission to the bath equals roughly the equivalent of $20 (USD) depending on when you visit.

• Towels, robes and swimsuits are also available for rent (I learned this after I spent my time soaking in a sports bra and black underwear because I forgot to pack one).

• Spa services are also available, everything from cheap massages to pedicures to mud treatments. Prices for each treatment vary, but you can see a full list of services with costs here.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Guarded by lions that symbolize power, Széchenyi Lánchíd (translating to "the Chain Bridge") is the city's first that offered a connection from the Buda and Pest sides of the city. 

Prior to this bridge, people needed boats (or a freeze!) to be able to cross the river. In fact, sometimes people would walk across the frozen Danube and end up getting stranded on the other side during a thaw. Legend has it that an important local once got stuck on the other side for a week while trying to get to his dad's funeral. He ended up missed the funeral and was so frustrated that he commissioned the building of Budapest's first permanent bridge.

The Chain Bridge was finished in 1849 and immediately became an important symbol of the city. While it (along with other great bridges of Budapest) was destroyed in World War II, rebuilding became a top priority.  We loved walking across this beautiful bridge (especially from the Pest side toward the Buda side) for incredible views of Buda Castle, Fisherman's Bastion and Hungarian Parliament. 

HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT

The Hungarian Parliament building is a beautiful example of Neo-Gothic architecture (with hints of Renaissance and Baroque as well). It's just over 100 years old, but is arguably the most iconic building in Budapest today. Located directly on the Danube (on the Pest side of the city), this is the third largest Parliament building in the world and definitely a sight you can't miss at least seeing while visiting Budapest. While we unfortunately didn't have time for a proper tour, if you book a ticket in advance (here) you can tour the inside (so long as the National Assembly is not in session). 

MÁTYÁS-TEMPLOM | MATTHIAS CHURCH

Right next door to Fisherman's Bastion is Matthias Church, a stunning Roman Catholic church known for it's Gothic architecture and colorful patterned roof. Given our very limited time in Budapest we unfortunately didn't have time to go inside (there was quite a long line outside!) so be sure to allow time to wait or get there right when the open if you want to see the interior. 

 

what TO EAT and where

I was a bit apprehensive as to whether or not I'd like Hungarian cuisine, but I can honestly say I loved it! While visiting Budapest, be sure to try the following dishes: 

GOULASH: Arguably the most popular Hungarian dish, goulash contains chunks of beef, potatoes, and vegetables, plus plenty of paprika and spices. I loved the dish I tried at Cafe Kor (pictured below). 

TÖLTÖTT KÁPOSZTA (STUFFED CABBAGE): Large leaves of cabbage, stuffed with meat and rice, which are cooked and then smothered with sour cream. I was nervous when my server at Spinoza (mentioned below) recommended it but I honestly was so impressed- it was fantastic! 

 

KÜRTOSKALÁCS (CHIMNEY CAKES): A Transylvanian sweet spiral pull-apart bread that is baked rotisserie-style outdoors over charcoal. I originally tried this sweet treat (often rolled in cinammon + sugar) in Prague and fell in love with it's sweet, warm, gooey, deliciousness. This time, we snacked on one while visiting one of the Christmas markets in the city center. 

OTHER FOOD TO TRY: 

• Tokaji Aszú (Aszu wine from Tokaj): Sweet, dessert wine from Hungary's famous wine region (and World Heritage Site), Tokaj.

• Lángos (fried dough): A plate-sized sheet of fried dough that is usually smothered with sour cream and cheese. Other possible toppings include garlic sauce or ketchup.

• Pörkölt (meat stew): A pastoral stew made of meat (often beef or chicken gizzards), tomato, paprika, and onions, usually served with a side of Hungarian noodles called nokedli.

While we were only in the city for a couple days, we experienced several highly recommended eateries in our short trip (where we ate a lot of the above!)

MAZEL TOV

Mazel Tov came highly recommended as one of Budapest’s hottest hangouts, and I can see why. It's bright ambience and contemporary feel made for an incredible dining atmosphere, and the food was genuinely fantastic. We ended up splitting the hummus plate with shwarma + falafels (and it was plenty for both Haley and I!) This would be a great place to come for lunch or dinner, although a booking in advance would be recommended as it was quite popular. 

CAFE KOR

We ate at Cafe Kor on our first night in Budapest when we asked our hotel where we could find authentic Hungarian food. Shortly after, we found ourselves in this cozy vaulted space with wooden floors and wrought-iron tables. Their menu is extensive, offering a variety of European fare and hearty Hungarian dishes of smoked sausage, potatoes and sour cream. Again, it would be wise to make a booking in advance- our hotel was happy to call ahead and reserve a table for us that evening. 

SZIMPLA KERT RUIN BAR

Ruin bars are all the rage in Budapest and Szimpla Kert is the Crown Jewel of them all. These bars are built in Budapest’s old Jewish quarter in the ruins of abandoned buildings, stores, or lots. They may not look like much from the outside, but once you walk in you'll find yourself in the middle of a hip, artsy bar that's bustling with crowds talking, people smoking hookah, an eclectic assortment of art, dancing, and enjoying the laid-back atmosphere. This is more of a place to come drink than it is somewhere to eat, but it's something you can't miss nonetheless. 

SPINOZA CAFÉ

We ate at Spinoza Cafe on our last night in Budapest and fell in love with the warm ambiance and delicious Hungarian food. This is where I had stuffed cabbage (it's worth noting again how much it surprised and delighted me!) A pianist played most of the evening and we dined over candlelight, which made for such a cozy setting (in addition to the wonderful food!) I'd advise making a booking in advance- we snagged the last table (it's not very big!) by chance when we stumbled in so we got lucky!

WHERE TO STAY

KEMPINSKI BUDAPEST HOTEL

We absolutely loved staying at Kempinski Budapest. Not only was the location ideal (right in Erzsébet Sqaure on the Pest side of the city and a short walk to just about every sight you want to see!) but every other detail was carefully considered to ensure a comfortable stay. The staff was most accommodating and friendly (they helped us several times between recommendations, restaurant bookings and ordering taxis). They also had such an impressive breakfast spread that we indulged in both mornings (and they even filled my massive water bottle with coffee bright and early on the morning we left to drive 5 hours to Slovenia. 

Budapest is affordably priced in general, but I was really impressed by the rates Kempinski charges for all you get as a guest- I'd argue it's an incredible value for a luxury experience and I'd highly recommend staying here for many reasons!

Overall, Budapest was an incredible destination that Haley and I both loved visiting and I would absolutely go back in a heartbeat. I hope this post inspires you to plan a trip to the Hungarian capital for yourself. If there's still something you have questions about, let me know in the comments below!

Thanks so much as always for popping in and reading about my adventures! Stay tuned for more travel guides coming in the near future. 

xx

Whitney

Salzburg Austria Travel Guide

Just along the Bavarian border of Germany lies a neighboring Austrian village that’s straight out of a storybook. Salzburg is most commonly known as the birthplace of Mozart, or as the filming location for The Sound of Music, but rest-assured this charming city is comprised of much more than just that. It's architecture boasts stunning medieval and baroque edifices, well-manicured parks are plentiful and a formidable clifftop fortress set against the northern border of the Alps makes for breathtaking scenery. Yes, Salzburg is an idyllic combination of man-made and natural beauty. My friend Haley (who took most of these amazing pictures!) and I spent three days exploring as much as we could of all this city has to offer (and we could have easily spent more time if it was available!) It was seriously such a magical trip and I'd recommend it to just about everyone (unless you're a troll that hates beautiful scenery). Whenever the time comes to plan a trip of your own, here is what I'd recommend: 

 

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

LANGUAGE: German, although just about everyone speaks English. I always advise to try, at the very least, to say “thank you” in the native tongue, which in this case is “Danke”. 

CURRENCY: Euros. In my experience, bank cards are widely accepted (except for taxis- be sure to have cash for those!) 

GETTING AROUND: Walk! Salzburg is an extremely walkable city that can pretty much be explored entirely by foot. There were a few times we relied on other forms of transportation (i.e. The Sound of Music tour took us around by bus and we did take a cab to dinner once while staying at Schloss Leopolskron). It’s also a great city for biking, although we didn’t have a chance to do that. 

SALZBURG CARD: Our friends at Visit Salzburg provided us with a 72 hour Salzburg Card, which you can purchase to save money as you see the city sights. With a choice between a 24, 48 or 72 hour pass, you'll get free admission to over 30 attractions and museums in the ‘City of Mozart', free use of the public transport network and discounts at numerous other sights. Note: the Sound of Music tour is not part of this, but nevertheless it will cover a lot of other sights so look into it depending on the sights you’re hoping to see!

 

STAY

HOTEL SACHER SALZBURG

Situated in the heart of Mozart's hometown, on the bank of the river Salzach, and opposite the old town, all sites are within walking distance from Hotel Sacher Salzburg. They offer individually furnished rooms that feature numerous antiques and original oil paintings (it was honestly one of the most beautiful rooms I've ever stayed in abroad).

It was evident that the staff is proud of their history and stays true to traditions. When we first arrived, we had the pleasure of sitting down with our new friend Sandra from the marketing department for a glass of prosecco to learn more about the rich history associated with Hotel Sacher Salzburg. She informed us of the infamous Sacher-Torte which has been the most famous cake in the world since 1832 and the original recipe remains a well-kept secret specific to this hotel.  The basis of the entire confection is a chocolate cake, thinly coated by hand with best-quality apricot jam. The chocolate icing on top of it is the crowning glory. It tastes best with a portion of unsweetened whipped cream. Sandra ordered us a slice (which pairs well with a cappuccino!) so we could try it for ourselves and it did not disappoint. Regardless of whether or not you stay here while visiting Salzburg, I definitely recommend at least popping in for a famous slice to experience it yourself!  

Hotel Sacher Salzburg provided the highest standard of comfort, superb service and every modern technology and amenity that we could have wanted. I thoroughly enjoyed our stay here and would definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a luxury experience in Salzburg.

HOTEL SCHLOSS LEOPOLDSKRON

For  the second half of our time in Salzburg, we stayed at Schloss Leopoldskron, which was built in 1736 as a family property of Salzburg's Prince-Archbishop Leopold Anton Freiherr von Firmian (1679-1744). It was later purchased by Max Reinhardt in 1918, who was the most famous theatre impresario at the time. It was in a very dilapidated state when he purchased it, but he concentrated with great creativity on its reconstruction.

More recently though, this infamous property is known to be where many of The Sound of Music scenes were filmed. The most recognizable? The backyard scene at the end of "Do-Re-Mi" watch the video clip below to refresh your memory!) 

As we learned on The Sound of Music tour (more about that in a minute) they actually used two different locations for the Von Trapp family home. Schloss Frohnburg, a 17th century country house, now the Mozarteum Music Academy, was used for the gates and front entrance of the villa where Maria (Julie Andrews) first approaches the Von Trapps after leaving the convent. But the director wanted the backyard to be more scenic with a lake that overlooked the majestic mountains of Salzburg. Thus, all backyard filming locations were filmed at Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron. The actual palace (where we would imagine the Von Trapp being) looks like this.  

*NOTE: You can only visit the grounds if you are a hotel guest, so if you're a Sound of Music enthusiast who wants to see the same exact point of view, you'll have to stay here in order to do so. 

Today, Schloss Leopoldskron serves as the home of the international non-profit organization Salzburg Global Seminar and the Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron.

To this day, the castle is not a museum but a house that is "lived" and offers its guests together with the castle park an extraordinary experience. The castle suites (pictured right) were under construction during our stay, so we stayed in the room pictured below on the left- which is a more affordable and contemporary option. 

This was a wonderful place to stay for many reasons. Aside from all the history and the stunning views, it's quite scaleable from a price perspective, offering something for just about every budget. It's not quite as central as some other properties, but bikes are available to take into the heart of Salzburg and the concierge was most accommodating to order us a cab when we needed it. Overall, you just can't really beat staying on the property where Sound of Music was filmed!

DO

WALK AROUND THE OLD CITY 

Salzburg’s Old Town is one of the best-preserved city centers north of the Alps. It's known for its baroque architecture and of course, it's gorgeous alpine backdrop. The Old Town of Salzburg also earned a spot on UNESCO’s World Heritage List back in 1997, which has helped protect the architecture and layout of Salzburg. Let yourself get lost in the streets, but be sure to pay a visit to some of these spots. 

Salzburg Cathedral in Residenzplatz

Salzach River (view from Hotel Sacher Salzburg)

Mohn Brezen in Residenzplatz where the Salzburger Christkindlmarkt takes place every year.

Residenzplatz

THE SOUND OF MUSIC TOUR

Laugh if you want, but this was probably my favorite thing we did in Salzburg! It's no secret that this city was the backdrop all throughout the hit film that put Julie Andrews on the map, so naturally it attracts crowds from all around the world flocking to see the same picturesque sites. There are a few different tour options, but it's pretty unanimous that the best one is this 4 hour bus tour we did. Once you load onto the bus, they start playing bits of the film that coincide with the sights you're about to see (they even encourage you to sing along!) I was surprised how much ground we covered in the 4 hour time frame- it honestly flew by. Here's what you can expect to see: 

STOP 1:  LEOPOLDSKRON PALACE

This should look familiar! While, as I mentioned, you can't go in the actual backyard where the movie was filmed unless you're staying on the property, this tour will allow you to enjoy the spectacular view during a photo stop at Lake Leopoldskron mirroring the palace, where the famous boating scene was filmed. From there, you can see the Captain´s backyard and private palace gardens.

STOP 2: HELLBRUNN PALACE, GAZEBO

Remember the song "16 going on 17" scene as well as the kissing scene of Maria and Baron von Trapp? The second stop of this tour takes you to the original gazebo which was given to the city of Salzburg and relocated to the gardens of Hellbrunn Palace. 

STOP 3: NONNBERG ABBEY

The next stop is passing by the Nonnberg Abbey, which is still an active women’s convent today. Here, the "real" Maria was a novice and also got married to Baron von Trapp. The Abbey does not allow visits within its walls, so you don't actually get off the bus here, but you are welcome to walk up to the front gate of their Gothic Church or to visit a church service after the tour.

STOP 4: SALZBURG LAKE DISTRICT AREA - ST. GILGEN

After touring the film-locations within the town of Salzburg, you will hop back on the bus and head for the Lake District, passing Lake Fuschl and Lake Wolfgang, where panorama shots and scenes of the picnic were filmed. The view down on to St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang make for an excellent photo stop!

STOP 5: MONDSEE WEDDING CHAPEL

After some time in the bus, you'll arrive in Mondsee to the famous church where the wedding of Maria and Baron von Trapp was filmed in the movie. Afterwards there is time to explore this little picturesque town on your own (I recommend getting an apfelstrudel!) 

STOP 6: MIRABELL GARDENS

The tour ends in the beautiful Mirabell Gardens where the song "Do-Re-Mi" was filmed. After or before joining the tour, you can explore the gardens on your own where you'll find the Pegasus Fountain as well as the Do-Re-Mi steps from the film (watch the video below from 0:59 - 1:53 to refresh your memory!) 

This was certainly one of the more touristy things I've ever done, but MAN was it so fun! This was hands down the highlight of our trip and I can't recommend it enough to anyone who loves The Sound of Music. Still not convinced? Here's a little video with more information about the tour to help you with your decision. 

MOZART'S BIRTHPLACE

W. A. Mozart was born in 1756 in the “Hagenauer Haus” at No. 9 Getreidegasse in Salzburg. Today, Mozart’s Birthplace is one of the most visited museums in Austria and is an absolute highlight, above all for Mozart fans. Even if you don't tour the inside, you must at least walk by and snap a photo while exploring the old town. 

WATCH THE SUNRISE AT MUSEUM DER MODERNE SALZBURG  

Haley was determined to wake up early for this sunrise shot over the city, and I'm so glad she was! We went to the Museum der Moderne Salzburg, which our Sound of Music tour guide told us was an iconic spot overlooking the city during the "Do-Re-Mi" scene. While the museum isn't open at sunrise, you can still take the elevator to the top (which you have to pay cash, roughly €6 per person) for incredible panoramic views. Watching the sun come up over the mountains and hearing the bell towers chime was seriously beautiful and an unforgettable moment from our trip. I highly recommend doing the same if you're up for an early morning! Remember: sunrise time varies throughout the year so be sure to check the specific details of when you're visiting!

EAT

Salzburg has loads of iconic traditional fare you must try while visiting. Some of the favorites? 

SCHNITZEL:

A wiener-schnitzel is arguably the epitome of Austrian cuisine. It’s essentially a large breaded and fried piece of veal. Contrary to popular belief (or at least Julie Andrews), it's not served with noodles, but instead with a lemon wedge, parsley potatoes and some cranberry. We ordered this dish at a recommendation I received from a friend:  

St. Peter Stiftskulinarium

Stiftskeller St. Peter is a restaurant within the walls of St Peter's Abbey, Salzburg, Austria. It is claimed to be the oldest inn in Central Europe (dating back to 803 AD) because of a mention of it in the Carmina anthology by the English scholar Alcuin of York. Regardless of the history, it was the dreamiest little spot you can imagine and offered fine dining options of authentic Austrian food. While they do offer Mozart Dinner Concerts, we opted for dinner in their standard dining room (which is in a cozy cave setting, complete with candles lit). It's a popular spot so be sure to make a booking in advance!

 

SALZBURGER NOCKERL

Our friends at Visit Salzburg told us from the very start of our trip that we had to try a Salzburger Nockerel: a sweet soufflé served as a dessert specific to this city to represent the snow-capped mountains surrounding Salzburg.There's a legend that says the famous Salzburg prince archbishop of Raitenau loved his mistress Salome mostly because she could make a mean (and fluffy) Salzburger Nockerl. It's quite tasty (although it does take some time to prepare so be sure to order it before you're done with your main course or you'll be waiting a while!) We were told that the best in town can be found at: 

Restaurant S’Nockerl im Elefant

Restaurant S'nockerl, located in the Elefant Hotel, is just a stone's throw from Mozart's birthplace in Salzburg's city center. They offer traditional Austrian food and a cozy atmosphere (and again, a delicious Salzburger Nockerl!) Again, I'd recommend making a booking in advance to secure a table. 

Some other food you must try? 

• STRUDEL: These tasty deserts are filled layered pastries that come in many forms: cherry strudels, nut strudels, plum strudels, etc. However, while in Austria, I'd go for an apple or cheese strudel!

• SACHER-TORTE: See my statements above where I speak to Hotel Sacher Salzburg, but this famous cake is a must try while visiting!

• PRETZEL BREAD: You can see from my photos above that pretzel bread is sold at stalls in the streets of the old town, but it's not something to miss! This load of carby-goodness will only cost you roughly €3 and comes in loads of different flavors (I suggest the cheese and garlic!)

While everything above made our time in Salzburg so wonderful, what really made it memorable was the people we met. On our last night, we met up with some friends we made on the Sound of Music tour for a drink and closed the pub down. Two of them were brothers from Melbourne and the other from Ireland. Throw in us two Americans and we had a loud, lively bunch exchanging travel stories and becoming fast friends late into the night.  Before they got to the pub to meet us, we befriended a local tour guide (originally from Germany) on a date with her boyfriend at the table across from us. They shared all their favorite bits about life in Salzburg and gave us some good recos for villages to visit when we went on to Germany (our next destination). We swapped social media information with all our new friends and still keep up with each others lives, which is something I try to do everywhere I go. It may seem odd to keep in touch with so many people you just met, but I'm continually surprised by how easy it is to connect with a complete stranger when you both share a common love for travel.  It's honestly the coolest feeling to keep making friends in different corners all around the world, and some of my favorite stories have been when I re-connect with these people on different trips in new destinations. So whenever I find myself in Melbourne or Dublin or back in Salzburg, I can't wait to get back in touch with my new friends I made on this trip!

All in all, Salzburg is a magical place that feels like a fairytale and I hope everyone gets the chance to visit. Still have questions about planning your trip? Let me know in the comments below!

Thanks as always for stopping by, and stay tuned for more travel guides and other travel-related stories soon to come!

xx

Whitney

Chicago Favorites

It’s no secret that Chicago has been a significant destination for me this past year, and I’ve been getting a lot of questions about it lately. In addition to seeking travel recommendations from those of you who know I moved here last fall (after many failed attempts to get to London), there have also been a lot of you wondering why I haven’t been there in a while now. 

I’ll address both of those questions in this post, but let’s start with the travel recommendations first.

I put a Chicago Travel Guide together a couple years ago prior to ever living in the Windy City. While I still stand by all those recommendations, I felt it was only necessary to do a “deeper dive” into the places that are my absolute favorites now that I know the city significantly better. So no matter what you’re looking to do while visiting Chicago, I’m confident this post pretty much has you covered in terms of any recommendations you might be looking for:

 

 

FAVORITE BOUTIQUE HOTEL: AMBASSADOR HOTEL

I first came to Ambassador Hotel for a drink at their swanky bar (now Booth One) and I fell in love with the posh, minimalist ambiance of the entire property. So when the time came to plan a little staycation when my friend Sarah came to visit, Ambassador immediately came to mind. I absolutely loved so many things about staying here. For starters, their Gold Coast location is just blocks from Lake Michigan (which means incredible views) and is a short walk to The Magnificent Mile. Rooms are priced very competitively, especially for how nice of a hotel it is. And most of all,  I loved having Booth One (pictured below) as our home base bar- it's one of the most beautiful places to grab a drink in my opinion!

 

 

FAVORITE BRUNCH : HAMPTON SOCIAL

Call me basic, but The Hampton Social is a brunch-goer’s dream. This nautical hotspot evokes everything there is to love about East Coast summers. In addition to the swoon-worthy decor, they have fantastic coastal fare, delicious and eclectic menu items (try the Fried Chicken and Doughnuts!) and refreshing cocktails to leave you utterly delighted.  This place is popular, so making a booking in advance is recommended. 

FAVORITE BREAKFAST: BEATRIX

There’s no better way to start your day than with breakfast, and there’s no better way to start your breakfast than with a beverage! Beatrix has an extensive list of beverages, everything from Bulletproof coffee to matcha to fresh juices to cocktails and even an extensive wine list (they obviously are open for other meals besides breakfast- although no shame in ordering any drink any time of day!) Beatrix has multiple locations in the city (clearly a favorite among Chicagoans) and is a top-notch American eatery. The menu is thoughtfully curated, the ambiance is enjoyable and I’ve always left wanting to come back straight away. Again- a popular spot so a booking in advance is suggested. 

FAVORITE ROOFTOP: CINDY'S

Cindy's has been a long-time favorite of mine in Chicago, and for good reason. This public rooftop (part of Chicago Athletic Hotel) offers stunning views of Lake Michigan, Millennium Park and the Chicago Art Institute. It has floor to ceiling windows (and actually... the ceiling is glass too) so the place is bright and cheery and flooding with natural light. Aside from the spectacular ambiance, the food is out of this world (but be warned, portion sizes are intended for sharing- so come hungry!)

FAVORITE COFFE SHOP: MAISON MARCEL

I fell in love with everything about Maison Marcel, a quaint French boulangerie + patisserie in Chicago’s Lake View neighborhood. It’s European bohemian interior boasts white-washed exposed brick, beautifully detailed wicker chairs and freshly cut baby’ breath on every table. They have a pretty extensive menu (although I always seemed to opt for an almond croissant and cappuccino) and even a juice bar. There is wi-fi and plenty of seating, so regardless of if you’re popping in to meet a friend for coffee, having lunch or needing a remote office for the day, Maison Marcel is sure to please. 

SOME OF MY OTHER FAVORITE COFFEE SHOPS? 

PRET-A-MANGER

GASLIGHT COFFEE ROASTERS

INTELLIGENTSIA COFFEE

LA COLOMBE ROASTERS

FAVORITE PLACE TO WORK: 3 ARTS club CAFE

Inside of Restoration Hardware in Gold Coast is 3 Arts Cafe, which offers an all-day menu with breakfast, lunch and dinner options. But regardless of whether you actually sit and dine in the restaurant, you are welcome to sit on the couches in the surrounding rooms of the cafe, use the free wi-fi and even order a coffee, juice or pastry from the coffee bar. You simply won’t find a more beautiful atmosphere to work in Chicago (in my opinion). 

FAVORITE JAZZ BAR: THE GREEN MILL

I have a soft spot in my heart for jazz music and so naturally I was on a mission to find the best spot to hear it live in Chicago. My Aunt and Uncle pointed me to The Green Mill, a swinging cocktail lounge famous for being Al Capone’s favorite bar during the heyday of Prohibition. Now over 100 years old, it’s one of the most prestigious jazz clubs in the world and my favorite spot to drink martinis and listen to a variety of jazz (every thing from traditional to swing to big band). The good music typically doesn’t start until late (we went around midnight) and they stay open until 4am if you’re looking for some after hours entertainment once the bars close. 

 

FAVORITE COCKTAIL BAR: MAUDE'S LIQUOR BAR

Pretty much every spot on W. Randolph (AKA Restaurant Row) is a winner in my book, but I fell in love with Maude’s Liquor bar: an intimate French speakeasy meets bistro serving some of the best handcrafted cocktails in the city. Their menu offers an array of French classics (including food) as well as an extensively curated French wine list. Whether you stay for dinner or just pop in for a drink, you won’t want to miss this blend of sultry ambiance and sensational cocktails. 

 

 

FAVORITE LUNCH SPOT: EATALY

Eataly is obviously not exclusive to Chicago, but it's here nonetheless and thus it makes the cut on my favorites list! This "amusement park of Italian delicacies" is in the heart of downtown and quickly became a regular spot for me to pop in for lunch. They offer an array of cafes, counters and restaurants (essentially dozens of dining options in one place!) Whether you want to do your own grocery shopping to take home and cook a proper Italian meal, or sit down anytime of day to let someone else prepare it for you, Eataly has you covered. I recommend it for lunch because you'll likely be walking around the downtown area at some point if you're visiting, so it's an easy place to pop in and choose from a variety of delicious options. 

FAVORITE DINNER SPOT: GIRL & THE GOAT

Also located on Restaurant Row, Girl & the Goat opened with the goal of serving bold flavors with global influence in a fun and lively setting. They also boast the title of James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes, along with awards from Eater including: Restaurant of the year, Chef of the year, Shaker of the year... the list goes on. Whether you go for a full meal or simply drinks and appetizers, do yourself a favor and just make sure you get there when you visit Chicago-- it's hands down one of my favorite meals I've ever had!

FAVORITE DISH: PLANTAINS AT LEñA BRAVA

My friend Sarah Kate took me to Leña Brava when I first moved to Chicago and I am still talking about these plantains months later. They're wood-oven roasted with butter, thick cream, and homemade fresh cheese but they taste better than just about anything else I can think of right now (I even swiped right on a Bumble guy who was a chef here and my opening line was shamelessly "Can you make those plantains?") It's worth visiting this Restaurant Row gem simply for this menu item (although fear not: nothing else you try will disappoint!)

FAVORITE SEAFOOD SPOT: OYSTER BAH

The food at Oyster Bah blew. me. away. This casual New England seafood spot specializes in cold water Oysters, but they serve way more than just that. Some of my absolute favorite thing we tried were the macaroni and cheese and the coconut cake, but I mean it when I say that everything we had was delicious. The atmosphere is cozy and nautical, the staff is wonderful and on a more important note, the drinks are boozy and delicious!

FAVORITE ITALIAN FOOD: SPACCA NAPOLI

Both my well-traveled family and my friend Domenico (who is from Napoli) have taken me to Spacca Napoli, so that alone should tell you something! In all seriousness, this Ravenswood pizzeria serves classic Neapolitan pies that will bring tears to your eyes it all tastes so good. It may not be deep dish (see the bottom of my list for my favorite Chicago-style pies!) but I'd argue you'll be far from disappointed to experience Spacca Napoli. 

FAVORITE CHINESE FOOD: DUCK DUCK GOAT

If you haven't picked up by the "Goat" title, this sister restaurant of Girl & the Goat (along with Little Goat) is another hit- this time in the Chinese category. Duck Duck Goat offers globally inspired cooking sauces and spice mixes with dishes from Dim Sum to noodles to fried rice and more. My friend Rachel and I split the Dan Dan Noodles with peanut and pork and the Duck Fried Rice on a cold, snowy night and left with full, happy tummies. Per usual, it's a good idea to make a booking in advance to avoid waiting for a table. 

 

FAVORITE MARKET: CHICAGO FRENCH MARKET

This European-inspired indoor food market offers a variety of grab and go kiosks with every global food imaginable (although they definitely heavy up in the French category). The decor makes you feel like you've just transformed to Paris and it's so fun to browse around all the different stalls to see what global cuisine is available. 

FAVORITE CHAIN: LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN

Sometimes a chain restaurant ain't a bad thing, and that's certainly the case with Le Pain Quotidien, an international chain of organic bakery-restaurants originating in Belgium. There are several locations in Chicago and I often found myself cozied up by a window with a cup of coffee to do some work. It's a great spot to meet a friend for a healthy breakfast or lunch if you're looking for a cozy ambiance. 

 

 

FAVORITE SPORTS OUTING: CUBS GAME

 No surprise here, I'm sure! The Cubs are a Chicago staple and you simply must try to get to a game if you can. Wrigley is so much fun year round (not just for baseball, they also have everything from concerts to Christmas markets here!) Even if you can't make it to a game, be sure to explore the area to see the stadium and imagine what all the excitement must be like on a game day. 

Fun Fact: The "W" flag you'll often see flying originated before the era of smartphones when people were taking the train home and wanted to know the result of the Cubs game. If they won, a W flag would be flying over Wrigley. 

 

FAVORITE SHOW TO SEE: HAMILTON

I've had the privilege of seeing this INCREDIBLE show twice now, once in London and for the first time here in Chicago. It truly is worth all the hype it's received and (in my opinion) is even better than the buzz you've heard. While you can enter the daily lottery for your chance to win $10 tickets, I'd advise against that tactic if you really want to see the show (it took me 3+ months of entering every single day before I finally won). It's one of the few cities (along with New York, LA and London) where you can see this Tony award winning sensation and it's sure to be the highlight of your trip if you do!

FAVORITE TOURIST SPOT: MILLENNIUM PARK

Paris has the Eiffel Tower. London has Big Ben. Chicago has "The Bean." Millennium Park was originally intended to celebrate the third millennium and is a collection of state-of-the-art architecture, and "Cloud Gate" (aka The Bean) is the crown jewel. You're sure to find tourists crowded around this art installation taking their photo in the reflection, but for whatever reason this attraction has a soft spot in my heart. Even if touristy bits aren't your thing, it's worth walking around this park (you can avoid Cloud Gate if you really must) to see all the architectural variety and well manicured landscaping. 

FAVORITE THING TO DO: CHICAGO RIVERWALK 

While this is certainly more enjoyable in the warmer months, strolling along the Chicago river is one of my favorite things to do in the city. This pedestrian walkway along the waterfront gives you a front row to some of the best architecture in the city and offers plenty of restaurants and bars to stop along the way for a drink.

FAVORITE MUSEUM: CHICAGO ART INSTITUTE

The Art Institute of Chicago is one of the oldest and largest art collections in the United States. It's home to some of the best-known works in America including: Edward Hopper's Nighthawks and Grant Wood's American Gothic. Even if you're not a huge art buff, there are so many fascinating and recognizable pieces in here that anyone can enjoy. I hadn't been since I was a kid and on my most recent trip this winter I was blown away by how impressive it was. If you have the time, I can't recommend it enough (and be sure to have lunch at Terzo Piano while you're there for beautiful views and delicious food!

OTHER FAVORITES TO NOTE: 

FAVORITE DEEP DISH PIZZA: LOU MALNATI'S

FAVORITE DINER: AU CHEVAL

FAVORITE BURGER: CHOP SHOP

FAVORITE GASTROPUB: PUBLICAN ANKER

FAVORITE HEALTHY LUNCH: SWEETGREEN

FAVORITE JUICE BAR: LEFT COAST

FAVORITE CHEESE PLATE: BAR PASTORAL

FAVORITE SPEAKEASY: THE VIOLET HOUR

FAVORITE WINE BAR: POPS FOR CHAMPAGNE

FAVORITE NON-CHICAGO RESTAURANT: THE KITCHEN

FAVORITE YOGA STUDIO: COREPOWER

FAVORITE SPIN STUDIO: FLYWHEEL

FAVORITE SPA/ NAIL SALON: COWSHED

I'm confident there's other favorites that I'm failing to mention, but there's still another half of this blog post that I need to write! So moving onto the "real talk" about why I haven't been back since I came home to Nashville for Christmas. For starters, I took a two week trip to London and Eastern/Central Europe for New Year's, so that carried me into the middle of January. But for the past couple weeks? I've been staying put in Nashville instead of heading back to Chicago. Why, you ask? Pour yourself a glass of wine and settle in for a minute. 

It’s really difficult for me to properly articulate all of this, because the past few months have been nothing short of an emotional rollercoaster. I’d love to deliver a nice and tidy  summary of everything that’s been going on in my brain, but truth be told there’s nothing too simple about it. In an effort to keep things as succinct as possible, I’ll start with this: while I was falling more and more in love with Chicago everyday, there was also voice deep inside me continuing to grow louder and louder, telling me it wasn’t time to give up on London just yet.

As I started building this new life in Chicago: making friends, dating different guys, discovering new neighborhoods that I could easily call home, it was so easy to imagine the kind of life I could see myself living if I stayed— and it was a really, really great one. I knew this said life could bring me a lot of joy and challenge me in new and exciting ways I was currently craving. But the longer I sat with that picture, I could also begin to see myself beyond the short term giddiness: being settled into a new life that was great, but not quite the one I felt peace about. Deep down, I knew moving forward with Chicago meant I'd be settling on what was easier to achieve or prolonging the work I needed to do if I ever wanted to get to London. Because at the end of the day, building a great life in Chicago will still require my time and energy, and the more of that I put forth here, the less of it I have to dedicate to getting there. 

I honestly kind of wish that voice in my gut wasn’t so loud. I love Chicago so much and it was a really emotional departure to say the least. I’ve been mourning the absence of the big city energy it gave me, as well as countless other details about it I really grew to love. And if all the doors to London slam in my face and my immigration lawyer tells me I’ll absolutely never be able to live there, I will scurry back to Chicago faster than you can blink. But as long as I know there’s hope for London (even if that “hope” currently has me feeling like I’m standing at the base of Everest) I feel a burning conviction to pursue it whole-heartedly with everything that I have in me. So until something changes, be it the circumstances that are keeping me from getting a visa, or the desire itself somehow disappears, I’m all in. 

I could go into a lot more detail, but the truth is none of it would lead to anything conclusive about what comes next. There’s just a lot of uncertainty ahead. For now, I’m back in Nashville where I can easily coast, which gives me more energy to put my head down and work tenaciously (which I’ve already been doing the past few weeks). I’m more committed than ever to work on not only making the harder, more disciplined choices that will get me closer to my goals (even if they take significantly longer than I’d like them to). 

I’m also more committed than ever to hold on tightly to the greatest takeaway I learned during my time in Chicago: to enjoy the journey. 

If I eventually do get to London I can honestly say I'll be so thankful that it didn’t happen on my original timeline. Because if it had? Chicago wouldn’t have been a chapter in my story. This past season has enriched my life in more ways than I can count, and I almost missed it because I was so stubborn and set in my ways, wishing things were different. 

We often think that happiness will arrive when we finally get what we want and our circumstances change. But at the risk of sounding like a terrible cliché, it’s often the circumstances we’re cursing that God is using to change us. And if our fists are clenched and our knuckles are white because we're so set on finally "arriving" we're going to miss out on countless opportunities to see goodness along the way. 

The truth is, I don’t actually know if this immigration strategy will even work or if I’ll ever successfully move to London like I’ve hoped to for so long now. I don’t know if I’ll end up right back in Chicago. In fact, I could end up living a totally different life than I imagine altogether, somewhere that’s not even on my radar.  But I know with certainty that living authentically and honoring my dream right now is transforming me in the process, and that alone is reason enough to stay on course. Because "where I'm headed" is actually much less about my geographic position and more about  learning to surrender to the (often painful) process of becoming.

So that’s the latest in my world. To be completely honest, it’s somewhat painful for my pride to pour out my personal details of endless uncertainty. I love sharing the fun stuff like booking a one way ticket to Europe, but this? Not so much. In fact, I debated sharing any of this at all. But it’s important to me to share my whole story, not just the pretty side of things. I hope that it serves as a reminder that our dreams aren’t merely condensed to the 2 hour timelines we watch play out in a film. Real life transformation that we hope for usually takes months and years of hard work— but I truly believe it’s worth fighting for. So fight for it I will. 

How do you eat an elephant, they say? One bite at a time.